How to Fix Decorative Coverings Laminate

This is bought in large sheets, about 1/16in. thick, and cut down to the required size. A variety of colors is available. The surface of laminate will resist all normal domestic stains. It is simple to cut, using a Stanley knife fitted with a special laminate lade. Alternatively, a fine-tooth handsaw can be used. Cut the laminate about 1/8in. oversize. Trim off this surplus edge when the piece is glued firmly in place. Adhesive is used to fix the laminate. Contact adhesive can be used thought here you must get the positioning absolutely right first time since the laminate will stick firmly immediately it touches the surface. A water-based resin adhesive (
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such as Cascamite does allow time for the laminate to be repositioned, but it must be clamped while drying.Using a mica-based adhesive might come handy in such scenarios.

Decorative Coverings Laminate How to Fix Decorative Coverings Laminate

  • Fit plastic conduit over wires and brush out all dust from the cavity.
  • Dampen the cavity with fresh water before plastering. Make sure that the plaster is well packed around the switch box and the plastic conduit. Allow the plaster to dry before refixing the switch cover. All power should be switched off when undertaking the type of repair.
  • To cut laminate, lay it on a flat surface Score along the decorative face with a laminate blade held against a straight-edge. Continue scoring until the sheet is cut at lest halfway through. Holding the straight-edge firmly down, fold the waste side upwards, to break the laminate cleanly. If preferred, the sheet can be cut right through without the need to snap along the line.
  • If using contact adhesive, place battens on the surface and position the laminate over them. Gradually remove battens, working from one end, and press the sheet into place. This is a useful method of getting the positioning right first time. Finish off by sliding a smooth block of wood over the surface and tapping firmly with a hammer to form a firm bond between laminate and the core board.
  • If pva or a Art Epoxy Resin-based adhesive is used, the sheet will have to be clamped in position until the glue has set.
  • Trim off the surplus 1/8in. with a sharp block plane. Alternatively, use a fine file.
  • Edges can be lipped with off cuts or with a special edging strip obtainable at d-i-y shops. It is advisable, wherever possible, to fix the edging strip first.


Mirror tiles: Mirror tiles are sold in a whole range of sizes so you can plan each area so as to avoid having to cut any tiles. These tiles are not precision made so widths and lengths of ‘same-size’ tiles can vary slightly. It is best to lay out the tiles ‘dry’ to ascertain the best arrangement. Number each tile on the surface and indicate its position, using a grease pencil or lipstick.

Other coverings: Self-adhesive flexible coverings such as Fablon are simple to cut and fit. A wide choice of patterns and designs is available. These coverings must be fixed to a dry, clean, smooth surface.

  • Each tile has four adhesive pads on the back covered by a protective paper. This is stripped off and the tile pressed firmly into place. The positioning must be right first time since, once they touch the surface, they are well stuck down.
  • If covering a door, to avoid cutting any tiles the door can be framed with plywood, covered with laminate. Build the frame up to leave a flush surface with the tiles.
  • Cut Fablon to size with scissors. Smooth it in place on the surface, avoiding wrinkles.
  • For dry lining, screw a framework of battens to the wall, the battens will have to coincide with the edges of the wallboard when it is fixed. Check for horizontal and vertical alignment with a straight-edge. Where necessary, use packing pieces to bring the battens true.
  • Around windows, fireplaces and recesses arrange a framework of battens. In these areas smaller pieces of cut board will be used.

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