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How to Replace Soil Plumbing Pipes

Soil pipes are replaced in the same way as plastic waste pipes but are much bigger – about 100mm (4in) in diameter- so they take longer to fit. They also have some different fittings, such as a soil branch for use where the outlet pipe joins the stack, and access fittings with bolted removable plates for inspection. There are also special connectors to link to the WC pan, via a special gasket, and to link to the underground drainage system which is traditionally made of vitrified clay.

The accurate moulding of the fittings and the ease of assembly means that you can confidently tackle complete replacement of a soil system.

soil plumbing pipes How to Replace Soil Plumbing Pipes

1. Soil pipes are joined in the same way as their narrower waste counterparts, but as they’re bigger take special care with cutting and chamfering.

2. You have got a lot more area to cover with the solvent cement so you must work speedily – but don’t neglect accurate application.

3. The soil branch pipe has a swept entry into the main stack fitting. This is one of the most important joints in the system, so make sure you get it right.

4. When you finally push the pipe into the fitting socket make quite sure that it goes right home against the pipe stop inside the fitting.

How to Replace Broken Window Sash Cords

Older wood windows have a system involving ropes, pulleys, and weights that makes the windows easier to raise and lower, and also lets the window stay in any position along the track. The ropes are attached on either side of the moving sash. Each rope extends up and over a pulley in the upper part of the track. The rope is attached to the weight that is inside a hollow place on each side of the window. These old windows are usually “double-hung,” which means that both sashes are movable. This also means there are two sets of weights, ropes, and pulleys on each side. Everything is fine until the rope breaks or the pulley gets balky.

window sash cords replacement How to Replace Broken Window Sash Cords

The pulley might just need a shot of oil. Here’s how you replace the rope:

1. Carefully pry off the stop molding on the side where the rope is shot.

2. You may have to use a razor blade to cut the paint seal along the stop.

3. Move the sash out a tad to expose the pocket where the knotted rope has been held.

4. Untie and remove the rope.

5. Work the sash out from the track on the other side and untie it, being careful to put the entire sash in a safe place.

6. Now comes a possible hard part. There is an access plate in the track down near the bottom. It is held in place with a couple of screws, and probably a dozen coats of paint as well. You may have to remove paint to find this. Once you do, remove the plate and you should see and retrieve the weight.

7. Untie and measure the two pieces of rope to cut the replacement rope to length.

8. Feed the replacement rope in over the pulley and keep feeding until you can spot the rope in the access opening.

9. Tie the weight on.

10. Put the sash back in place on the side opposite to the side you’ve been working on and reattach the rope on that side first.

11. Install the rope into the slot and knot it.

12. Hold the sash against the strip separating the tracks for the upper and lower sash as you raise it to the top.

13. Look at the weight in the access hole. It should be suspended about 3 inches from the sill. If not, adjust the rope in the sash.

Once it’s adjusted, replace the stop and the access cover.

Not all windows are old or wooden. Many windows are aluminum frames and don’t have the rope, pulley, and weight balance system. If one of these windows suddenly stops keeping the position you set it at, look for a spiral rod coming from a metal tube in the track on one side of the moveable sash. Most of these rods have a small metal rod that sticks out on each side down near the bottom. This should fit into a slot inside the tube. It needs to be twisted and pushed up into the tube at the same time. Use needle-nosed pliers to do this, and as you get the rod up into the tube, move it around until it slips into the slot. If it doesn’t operate properly, disengage the rod and twist some more.

In another variation, the tube is held in place by a screw at the top. The tube must be removed, and it is twisted to adjust the spring.

How to Replace a Window Pane

No matter what time of year, kids across the country are trying to set a new home-run record or complete a screen pass. Usually the thing that breaks is not a record, but a windowpane when the ball hits it. Putting in a new pane is painless-we’ll lead you through it:

1. Wearing gloves and safety goggles, carefully remove the shards of glass by wiggling them.

2. When the glass is out, scrape away the old putty. Brush linseed oil over hardened putty to soften it up. Or, use heat from a heat gun or propane torch. Keep the torch moving so that you don’t burn the wood. Try to retrieve the little metal points that held the glass in place. Metal-framed windows won’t have the tiny glazier’s points. Instead, the pane will be held in place by a spring that fits in a slot in the frame. Don’t lose these.

window pane replacement How to Replace a Window Pane

3. Use a wire brush to get the last crumbs of putty.

4. Coat the bare wood with linseed oil.

5. Measure up, down, and across and subtract 1/8-inch from both the vertical and horizontal measurements.

6. Then measure again to be sure!

7. The retailer will cut the pane to size. While there, also buy a can of glazier’s compound.

8. Roll the compound in your hands to form a long string about as big around as a pencil.

9. From outside, push the string of compound against the frame where the pane is to go.

10. Push the pane of glass against the compound. Don’t worry if some squeezes out.

11. Using a putty knife, firmly embed the glazier’s points every 6 to 8 inches around the wooden frame.

12. Next, put blobs of the compound against the glass and use the putty knife to spread, smooth, and bevel it so that it resembles the putty around the rest of the panes.

13. Let the putty cure for three days and paint it. Let just a little of the paint get over onto the glass so the putty is sealed.

If you wish to make sure that pane isn’t a target again, consider replacing with an acrylic instead of glass. It won’t break!

How to Replace a Washer

Conventional pillar tap – This is the basic type of tap design and provides a good example of the procedure to follow when replacing a washer. These taps are commonly used for the hot and cold water supply over the kitchen sink and in this position they are probably the most frequently used taps in the house. It’s quite likely that sooner or later the washers will need replacing.

To do this you’ll first have to turn off the water supply either at the mains or, if you’re lucky, at isolating stop-valves under the sink which when shut cut off the supply either to the hot or cold tap without affecting the rest of the system. Turn on the tap fully so it is drained before you start work.

Usually with a pillar tap the spindle rises out of a dome-like easy-clean cover, which you should be able to unscrew by hand. If this proves too difficult, you can use a wrench, but pad the jaws thoroughly with rag to avoid damaging the finish on plated taps.

washer replacement How to Replace a Washer

With the tap turned on fully you can then raise the cover sufficiently to slip the jaws of a wrench under it to grip the ‘flats’ of the headgear ˇŞ the main body of the tap which has a nut-shaped section to it. If you can’t do this you’ll need to take off the tap handle and easy-clean cover. First you’ll have to remove the tiny grub-screw in the side of the handle which can then be lifted off. If this proves difficult a good tip is to open the tap fully, unscrew, then raise the easy-clean cover and place pieces of wood (a spring-loaded clothes peg will do) between the bottom of the easy-clean cover and the body of the tap By turning the tap handle as if you were trying to close it the upward pressure on the easy-clean cover will force it off the spindle However, you then have to replace it over the spindle just sufficiently to enable you to turn the tap on. When this is done take it off again and remove the easy-clean cover. While you are doing all this make sure you hold the tap steady If the headgear is stiff and the entire tap turns you could damage the part of the sink into which the tap fits.

You can now put the headgear to one side. You should be able to see the jumper, with the washer attached, resting on the valve seating within the body of the tap (though sometimes it gets stuck and lifts out with the headgear). Often the washer is held in position on the jumper by a tiny nut which has to be undone with pliers before the washer can be replaced. This may be easier said than done, and rather than waste time attempting the all-but-impossible, it’s probably better to fit a new washer and jumper complete rather than just renewing the washer Once this has been done the tap can be reassembled, and as you do this smear the screw threads with petroleum jelly Tap with shrouded head This is basically a pillar tap where the spindle is totally enclosed by an easy-clean cover that also acts as a handle to turn the tap on and off. Some shrouded heads are made of plastic and care is therefore needed when using wrenches. But the mystery of this tap is how to get to the inside ˇŞ and methods vary with the make of tap.

Some shrouded heads can simply be pulled off, perhaps after opening the tap fully and then giving another half turn. Some are secured by a tiny grub-screw in the side. But the commonest method of attaching the head is by a screw beneath the plastic ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ indicator. Prise the plastic bit off with a small screwdriver to reveal the retaining screw (normally a cross-headed screw). When the shrouded head has been removed you’ll find that you can unscrew the headgear to reach the interior of the tap in the same way as with an ordinary pillar tap. Rewashering can then be done in the same way.

If the jumper is not resting on the valve seating in the body of the tap, but is ‘pegged’ into the headgear so that it can be turned round and round but can’t be withdrawn, it’s slightly more of a problem to remove the washer-retaining nut. The easiest way is to fasten the jumper plate in a vice (although pliers will do) and turn the nut with a spanner. Some penetrating oil will help to free the thread. If after this you still can’t loosen the nut, a good tip is to slip the blade of a screwdriver between the plate of the jumper and the tap headgear and lever it to break the pegging A new jumper and washer can then be fitted complete, although the stem should be ‘burred’ or roughened with a file to give an ‘interference fit’ when it is slipped into the headgear.

Bib taps – These taps are treated in exactly the same way as a conventional pillar tap. You might find with a garden tap that there’s no easy-clean cover, so the headgear is already exposed.

Supataps – Changing the washer on this type of tap can be carried out in minutes, without the need to cut off the water supply first. Before you begin, check that you have a replacement Supatap washer and jumper unit. Once you’ve undone the retaining nut at the top of the nozzle you have to open up the tap fully ˇŞ and then keep on turning At first the flow will increase, but then, just before the nozzle comes off in your hand, a check-valve inside the tap will fall into position and stop the flow You can separate the anti-splash device, (containing the washer and jumper unit) from the nozzle by turning it upside down and tapping the nozzle on a hard surface ˇŞ not a ceramic sink or basin The washer and jumper unit then need to be prised from the anti-splash device ˇŞ you can use a knife blade or the edge of a coin to do this. A new washer and jumper unit can then be snapped in. When reassembling the tap it’s necessary to remember that the nozzle has a left-hand thread and so has to be turned anti-clockwise to tighten it.

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