Category Archives: Building

How to Build a Linen Storage Cabinet

Having a linen cabinet at home is extremely essential for every family. A proper storage to keep all your linens like clean towels and sheets on hand properly kept and organized. Building a linen storage cabinet is very easy. In this illustration, dimensions in use as sample pattern (2ft depth, 5ft width, and 8ft height) but measurements are adjustable according to your size preferences.

how to build a linen storage cabinet How to Build a Linen Storage Cabinet

Materials You’ll Need

  • Wood Sheets of 5pcs (8ft tall)
  • Handsaw
  • Wood glue
  • Wood screws approximately 50 pieces
  • Measuring tape
  • Paint and a paintbrush
  • Sealer
  • Freestanding baskets

How to Build a Linen Storage Cabinet

  1. Space Measurement. Determine the measurement of your space starts from the floor up to your ceiling. In this illustration, the preferred height illustrated is 8ft tall.
  2. Wood Cutting. For the sides of your linen storage cabinet, cut two pieces of wood measuring 8ft in height and 2 ft in depth. After that, cut the top and the bottom, ensuring every piece should have equal measurement of 2ft depth and 5ft width for each desired number of shelves.
  3. Connecting the side pieces to the top and bottom pieces. With the use of wood glue and wood screws, securely connect the side of your linen closet to the top and bottom. Secure each side with four wood screws. For ensuring neat and tidy outcome, make sure when attaching the top and bottom pieces must fitted rightly inside your side pieces.
  4. Installation of Shelves. When installing the shelves, set at least 18 inches apart because allowing extra free space in your linen cabinet allows you roomy accommodation of items together. You may leave extra room at the topmost of your linen closet for storing larger and taller items like pillows.
  5. Paint Application. You may apply paint to your wood of any color you like and allowing the paint on wood to dry up, before applying a sealer on the wood to avoid moisture from a threat of damaging your wood.
  6. Accessorizing. Add ornaments to your storage closet with freestanding baskets, where tiny items can be stored like shower stuff. With the benefit of the basket makes it skillfully easy to carry those stuff going to and from the shower.

How to Build a Pole Shed

Building a pole shed. First we may need to define what a pole barn is. It is basically a barn that is constructed to hold up poles that provides as the primary support formation for the roof and the outer walls. In some case, the beams of wood are the poles, compare to a metal, which is what usually comes to our mind when we say “pole”. To add up to the pole barn, the pole shed is as well ordinary. For the storage sheds, it can be set up both in urban areas and in rural settings.

how to build a pole shed How to Build a Pole Shed

It is ordinary to nearly all models are the best features of this pole barn. The first one is; the poles are almost all wood. Secondly, the covering of the barn is typically metal. Collectively the two materials work to create a formation that is appropriate for both farm animals and further storage space.

For a pole barn, there is some case that a solid groundwork can be added to it. Though, there are lots of pole barns that have a plain dirt floor also. The benefit to it is primarily one of cost. But the main inconvenience with this is that it can simply develop into liable to unnecessary insects and animals, but they typically locate their way into barns by means of solid floors.

With the help of family and friends, some people who have a farm, tries to construct a pole barn all by themselves. It may be somewhat an easy duty, particularly compared to other types of structures. But pole barn strategies are readily offered from a quantity of diverse sources, several people even assist the planner by arranging their delivering materials and equipment.

Pole barn has its advantages; it is the ability to build quickly to its own cost. Generally pole barns costs among $5,500 to $13,500 US Dollars, it depends on its measurement of the construction and may have checked first if concrete floor is included. There are cases that it can also be constructed more than a week if others will assist the construction.

To add, there are also some disadvantages of constructing a pole barn. First is, they’re likely be prone to a heavy breeze compare to other types of barns. With a powerful tornado, a barn may hold well against it, even the heavy straight-line winds will cause a fair amount of damage. You may consider those locations that are very windy.

Its structures are suited to some various ideas. The pole barn can also be used for the storage of feeds and of hays; it can also be used as shelters for domestic animals. In some case, pole barns can also be used for airplane hangars, garage and also machine shed. For easy access, some pole barns can have its sliding doors so that it can move the equipments in and out for human access use or to be able to move larger animals as well.

The sheds and barns of a pole are just some simple ideas made for agricultural reason. All you need is some fundamental skills, one would be tools and some lumbers so to make it. It can be any size if you needed it; anyway materials are economical.

Materials You’ll Need

  • Hammer Saw
  • Nails (straight and for roofing nails)
  • Lumber
  • Equipments for digging
  • Gravel
  • Concrete Poles
  • Roof trusses
  • Tin roofing

Preparation

  1. Choose which location for construction – make sure that it is levelled and not accessible for flooding. It is also best to select a location that is flat so it wouldn’t be a big problem when it rains.
  2. Make a detailed draft for the building. It will help you picture out the construction of the building. See if there are some changes needed to do before you proceed.
  3. You may need a building permit first before you start the plan. So better check the codes for local building.

How to Build a Pole Shed

  1. You may need to dig a hole first for your posts. Use an auger or a handheld post hole digger. Check if the hole you dig is larger than the post.
  2. The next step will help with the drainage. So place a 2 inch gravel base underneath the hole then set the post.
  3. To strengthen the pole, fill the hole with concrete. It will help the post from being exposed to wetness of the ground and from coldness during winter season.
  4. Support the poles up straight until solid sets. Use a 2 x 4 lumber to form the braces. Simply nail one end to its post forming an angle, then the other end against the ground.
  5. Then install the roof trusses. Whatever the size of your shed is, are depending on the rise and size of your trusses.
  6. Using the screw-in roofing, attach the tin to the roof. It needs to overlap the section; you may use the ridge cap unto the peak of your roof.

How to Build a Portable Pitching Mound

A portable pitcher’s mound is a piece of equipment which comes in very handy during bad weather when practice needs to be moved to the nearest area with dry ground or indoor. Usually, these areas don’t have a pitcher’s mound so having a portable one could prove to be very useful. A 2-piece portable pitcher’s mound can be created out of wood.

Materials You’ll Need

  • 2 foot planks 6×10 – 3/ 4 inch thick
  • 1 lumber board 2×8 – 6 feet long
  • 1 lumber board 2×6 – 6 feet long
  • 1 lumber board 2×4 – 6 feet long
  • 1 lumber board 2×2 – 6 feet long
  • 2 foot planks 4×6 – 3/ 4 inch thick
  • 4 lumber boards 2×10 – 6 feet long
  • 2-inch screws
  • Drill

how to build a portable pitching mound How to Build a Portable Pitching Mound

Instructions

  1. Take 3 of your 2×10 lumber boards and arrange them parallel to each other, 20 inches apart, standing on edge of the plank’s top.
  2. Cover the 3 2×10 lumber boards with the 4×6 board. Screw the board to the beams. For each beam, you will be needing at least 8 screws. One of your beams should be 4 inches from one of the 2×10 lumber’s edge, the other in the middle and one for the remaining 2×10 lumber.
  3. Flip the beams and the board over. The other board must then be attached to the beam’s other edge. You must align it with your first board.
  4. In ascending order, the other beams should be arranged on the ground, 2 feet apart, parallel to each other: first the 2×2, followed by the 2×4, then the 2×6, next the 2×8 and finally the 2×10.
  5. A 6×10 can now be laid over your beams which you arranged in ascending order in a slanting position with a 2×10 beneath a 6 foot edge. The other edge of the lumber should be touching the ground measuring 2 feet beyond the 2×2 lumber. Using 2-inch screws, attach your board to all the beams. At least 8 screws should be used on each of the beam.
  6. Flip over the beams and the board. Attach the other 6×10 board to your beams.
  7. Slice your wedge which is made out your 6×10 board beneath the overhanging edge of your rectangular platform which is made out of your 4×6 board. If you want to label the rubber’s spot, it should be in the 6-foot crease’s center between its parts, 6-inch distance to your platform. You can paint a rectangle to label the rubber’s location.
  8. For an added touch, surface your mound’s wood with artificial turf or polyurethane.

How to Build Frameless Cabinets

A frameless cabinet is a cabinet style which has been a fashion in Europe for ages. It is built as a box with a back and ceiling which are as structurally sound as the sides and floor without the hardwood face frame. To mention some of its benefits, a frameless cabinet is sturdier, more accessible; it has a more open interior and looks more modern.

Materials You’ll Need

  • Screws
  • Drill and bits
  • Plywood – 1/4 inch
  • Plywood – 3/4 inch
  • Tape measure
  • Circular saw
  • Wood glue
  • Hammer and finish nails or compressor and pin nailer

how to build frameless cabinets How to Build Frameless Cabinets

Instructions

  1. Get a 3/4 inch of plywood, chipboard or MDF and cut 2 bulkeads and side panels. The measurement for standard lowers is 22 inches deep and 30 inches high. Cut your dado groove: 3/8 inch deep and 1/4 inch width for back support, 3/4 inch from the back. Create one left and one right; dadoes go in the inside. These bulkheads are typically pre-drilled to support European style drawer hardware and hinges. Ask your hardware manufacturer for the drilling pattern specifications.
  2. Cut a bottom piece from a same 3/4 inch material as your bulkheads to your desired unit width and shallower by 1 inch compared to the bulkheads. Cut 2 top cleats still from your 3/4 material which are 4-inch wide, same length as the bottom’s width. Proceed in cutting 2 back cleats which must be of the same size. If you own a pocket screw jig, for installation purposes bore 2 pocket screw holes in each of the cleats’ end.
    From your 1/4 inch material, cut a back which is 3/4 inch narrower compared to the top cleats and bottom piece and similar in height as your bulkheads. From your 3/4 inch material, cut 2 base cleats measuring 3 inches wide and 20 inches long. Cut four cleats with similar width as its bottom and 3 inches wide. These will then be the base pieces.
  3. On a stable and flat work surface, rest one bulkhead on its long edge with the dadoed edge up. On one edge of the bottom piece’s side, run down a bead of glue. Rest its bottom piece positioning it at a right angle to its bulkhead. The bottom piece’s side must be flush with the bulkhead’s bottom edge. The dado must be kept to the bulkhead’s inside. The bulkhead can now be nailed to the bottom piece. Repeat the process of nailing on the opposite side of the other bulkhead.
  4. Connect one top cleat evenly with the cabinet’s top and front. Glue its ends. To attach, you can nail from the bulkhead’s outside or utilize pocket screws.
  5. Slide back to the dado. Keep on with it until it’s flush at its top. Add your two black cleats. It should be from its rear compressed against its back. Glue the ends using pocket screws to attach or nailing through the bulkheads. The top cleat flush remaining must be added with the cabinet’s top. The edge’s back must be pressed against the back of the cabinet. Fasten using pocket screws or nails.
  6. From the 4 pieces of shorter base, put together 2 Ls. They should be nailed together along its long edges. These would be your base’s ends. Rest on edge the 20 inch cleats. The 2 Ls must be attached to the 20 inch cleat’s end to create a rectangle tray which is 3 inch high with the additional 2 cleats to the inside and flush with its top. This will then be your base. 2 inches from the cabinet’s front, turn your cabinet face up positioning its base flush with the back and the bulkhead. Attach them with screws. For a custom-made storage look, you can add shelves, drawers and a door.

How to Build a Patio

The word patio is of Spanish origin which meaning backyard or back garden. It is a space outdoors which is used generally for recreation or dining. It is typically paved and is often adjoining a residence. Typically, patios are made of stone slabs or concrete which are being laid on a base. The base is oftentimes comprised of layers of sharp sand, cement mortar and compacted stone chips. Wood are preferred by some people though. Either way, both wood or stone are available in varieties of style and look. So regardless of a person’s taste, it is very possible that they can find the kind of material which are appealing to them.

how to build a patio How to Build a Patio

Materials You’ll Need

  • Water
  • Old board
  • Kitchen broom
  • Slate, brick, flagstone, patio stones
  • Builder’s sand
  • Gravel
  • Scissors
  • Garden rake
  • Tape measure
  • Landscaping fabric
  • Shovel
  • Chalk spray for landscaping or flour

How to Build a Patio

  1. Locate the area where you want to make your patio and mark the area. You can do this making a line simply by sprinkling flour at the patio area’s border or using landscaping chalk and spraying along the patio area.
  2. To remove grass layers, start digging up the soil inside the patio area’s marked spot. A hole 5 inches deep must then be created. As excess dirt are removed, the hole’s floor surface should be as level and as flat as possible.
  3. Using landscaping fabric, line the hole’s floor. Any multiple sheets must overlap by 4 – 6 inches. To be able to secure it, pour the gravel in over the fabric’s top, adding just enough to be able to layer your area with gravel measuring one inch. Gravel must be raked out to make it level.
  4. Proceed in pouring sand over the gravel. Rake them out until sand measuring 2 inches thick are added. This would leave space measuring 2 inches between the surface level of the ground and the sand’s top. For levelling out and make the sand flat, you need to use the old board.
  5. Start placing your brick or stone on the sand’s top starting on the patio’s end. If you’re using pieces of various shapes, any set of patterns that you planned on must be followed. This would ensure that the prepared area of your patio is being filled in.
  6. Go on working towards your patio area’s other end. Your stones must be laid as snugly as possible. You must be careful not put pressure or lean on the stones as you are moving around them. Continue until your whole patio area is laid.
  7. Over your entire patio, proceed in pouring a layer of sand measuring one inch. You can begin sweeping sand between the bricks or stones. A light water mist can be sprayed over the patio once all sand is worked in and swept to settle it. A week later, repeat the process of adding the sand, then sweeping, followed by misting. This can also be done anytime you notice a loose stone.
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